The Truth About Single Stitch T-Shirts: Vintage Myth Debunked?
If you’ve spent any time in the world of vintage tees, you’ve probably heard someone refer to a “single stitch” T-shirt with almost reverent awe or saw the confusion at double stitched shirts. It's become a shorthand - a litmus test for authenticity, age, and supposedly, quality, but in fact; not all 90s T-shirts are single stitch - and that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
What Is Single Stitch?
Single stitch refers to the construction style along the hem or sleeve of a T-shirt, using a single row of stitching rather than the more modern double-stitch technique. It's most commonly associated with vintage tees from the 80s and early-to-mid 90s. To some collectors, it’s the holy grail. But the truth is more complex - and often, more commercial.
The Shift Wasn't Uniform
While many shirts from the 80s and early 90s were made with single stitching, the transition to double stitching didn’t happen overnight. Brands like Hanes, Oneita, Screen Stars, Tultex, and even early days Gildans switched techniques at different times, often inconsistently across product lines or factory runs. You’ll even find T-shirts from 1991 or 1992 with double stitching - or a strange combo of single-stitched sleeves but a double-stitched hem and vice versa.
This wasn’t about style. It was about cost and efficiency as blank manufacturers were trying to save time, and optimise for cost efficiency whilst wholesaling.
Why the Change?
Double stitching was introduced because it’s simply more durable. A second row of stitches reduces fraying and strengthens the seams, especially under strain — like in the underarm area or sleeve cuffs. For large-scale manufacturers, switching to double stitch was a no-brainer. It reduced returns, extended the lifespan of the garment, and streamlined production across global factories.
Single stitch wasn’t some artisanal choice. It was just what made sense until it didn’t.
So Why the Hype?
In the vintage world, single stitch has become a visual cue - a signal that a T-shirt might be from a specific era. It’s shorthand for “old,” which often gets confused with “better.” But make no mistake: single stitch is not inherently a sign of superior quality. It’s just one of many quirks that give a vintage shirt its story.
The more important markers? Fabric feel, print technique, tag style, and most importantly, the art - whether it’s a cult band, an obscure film, or a long-defunct skate shop. A T-shirt’s cultural weight matters more than a single seam, though you will see people vigilantly saying 'it's not from the 90s if it ain't single stitch' they are probably not well versed in the vast universe of blanks produced & utilised over the decades.
At the End of the Day
The most important is what a piece represents & what it means to you, than whether it ticks arbitrary vintage boxes. If a shirt has soul, if it’s printed on a solid blank, if it features era-defining (or era-subverting) art, it deserves your attention. Whether it’s single stitch or not, it’s the story that matters.
So next time you're on the hunt, don’t obsess over the stitch count. Feel the fabric. Check the tag & copyright, research online etc., but most importantly, respect the weirdos who made it & rock it like it’s 1995.